As we get caught up in trying to get sewing projects completed and move on to the next one in the limited time available it is so very easy just to jump from project to project without giving any thought to whether or not we have the right needle in the sewing machine.
It can be a costly mistake to simply use the same needle for everything you sew until it breaks. The size of the needle you use depends upon the size of the fabric yarns in the fabric. The finer the yarns, the finer the needle needs to be. In general, a needle should be fine enough to penetrate the fabric without marring it, yet have a large enough eye that the thread does not fray or break during the sewing process.
Needle types related to fabric structure are sharp point (regular) for woven fabrics, ball point for knits, and wedge point for leather and vinyl.
The REGULAR SHARP POINT NEEDLE is ideal for all woven fabrics because it helps to produce an even stitch and causes a minimum of fabric puckering. This needle is not recommended for knits, as it has a tendency to "cut" yarns and cause skipped stitches. This needle comes in a wide range of sizes from the finest size 9 to a heavy size 18.
The BALL POINT NEEDLE is specifically designed for knit and elastic fabrics and has a "rounded" point rather than a sharp point. This needle pushes between the fabric yarns rather than "cutting through" the yarns. This needle comes in sizes 9 to 16 and the larger the needle size, the more "rounded" the needle point is.
The WEDGE POINT NEEDLE, which is designed for leather and vinyl, easily pierces these fabrics to make a hole that will close back upon itself. This eliminates unattractive holes in the garment, and also reduces the risk of the stitches tearing the fabric. The wedge point needle comes in sizes 11 to 18. The size 11 needle is designed for soft pliable leathers,while size 18 is designed for heavy or multiple layers of leather or vinyl.
In addition to choosing the right TYPE of needle, it is also important to know the proper needle SIZE for the type of fabric being used. As a general rule you can utilize the following fabric category/needle size information when choosing the needle for your next project.
DELICATE fabrics such as silk, chiffon, voile, fine lace and organdy would need a fine "size 9" needle.
LIGHTWEIGHT fabrics such as synthetic sheers, batiste, taffeta, velvet, stretch fabric, tricot and plastic film would need a "size 11" needle.
MEDIUM WEIGHT fabrics such as gingham, poplin, linen, muslin, chambray, wool crepe, flannel, knits, jersey, wool, chintz, satin, raw silk, wool suiting, stretch fabric and drapery fabrics would need a "size 14" needle.
MEDIUM-HEAVY fabrics such as sail cloth, gabardine, heavy suiting, tweed and heavy drapery fabrics would need a "size 16" needle.
HEAVY fabrics such as denim, overcoatings, ticking, upholstery and canvas fabrics would need a "size 18" needle.
One final needle pointer is always replace dull, bent or nicked needles. If you hit a pin, you should immediately change the needle. A bent needle, even if only "slightly" bent or nicked can cause skipped stitches and can easily cause damage to your fabric by tearing the fabric yarns.
About the author:
Sarah J. Doyle is author of over 25 sewing, craft and how-to
books, as well as author of online pattern making, sewing and
craft classes. Visit LearnHowtoSew.com for more tips and how-to information on sewing and crafting.
(c) Copyright 2004, Sarah J. Doyle. All Rights Reserved.
I'm trying to sew five dresses with alot of lightweight fabric such as chiffon, charmeuse, silk, satin and crepe de chine. can i get some help and advice?
ashok anand – chennai - india
Sep 08, 2009 - 06:52
the information which u hav given s interesting @ useful
thanx
rose – qauhog
Sep 03, 2009 - 18:47
great advice!!!!!!!!!!
Liz Nielsen – North Carolina, USA
Nov 02, 2008 - 22:08
I want to take in the side seam on a knit wool dress. What type of stitch do I use, straight or zig zag? I take it a ball point needle should be used. Thank you.
Reply to Liz Nielsen
Vicky Triantos – melbourne, australia
Jan 03, 2009 - 21:07
Dear Liz,
I hope this advice does not come too late for your project. A ball point needle is best advised. A straight stitch will usually break with any stress on the seam, therefore a fine zigzag stitch will probably work better. Depending on what type of sewing machine you have, it could also have stretch stithes already programmed. Ideally, a serger(overlocker) is best suited for stretch /kinit fabrics. Maybe something to think about. I hope this has been of some help. If possible, would love to hear back and help with any other questions. I am a qualified designer/dressmaker and sewing teacher.
Take care,
Vicky
sewingiseasy@australiaon line.net.au
Peggy – NE.
Oct 27, 2008 - 14:59
What size and type of needle should I use when sewing with fleece. I am making a bath robe and am having touble. When trying to put the pocket on it seems like it is too thick and I'm having a terrible time getting the needle to go through the layers of fabric. I first tried a ball point needle size 14 then a regular needle size 14. The regular needle did go through but not without a struggle. Should I use a larger needle? This isn't really thick fleece. Also, I put my machine on a long stitch {almost a basting stitch}but it still makes a small tight stitch. Should I use the zig zag stitch even for top stitching?
Reply to Peggy
Peggy – NE.
Oct 27, 2008 - 21:58
What size and type of needle should I use in my machine when sewing fleece fabric? Should I use ball point for regular needle and what size?
Nancy – Canada
Oct 26, 2008 - 12:43
I am sewing a Japanese kimona in a polyester Chinese brocade. I want the needle holes as invisible as possible and I want to avoid compromising the fabric threads (pulling at the needle sight). What needle size, thread type and stitch length should I use for best results? Presently I am using a sharp size 9 needle with a poly-cotton thread and a small stitch and I don't like it.
tonya – brooklyn ny
Aug 09, 2008 - 17:03
i purchased a very light weight type knit that has thin plastic circles that are faux sequins. i want to use it to skin the tail of a mermaid... the tail is a batik that i painted with gesso which totally changed the hand, making it stiff and grainy looking. (at the time it didnt seem like i was using tooo much lol) my question is which sewing machine needle should i use? knit? sharp or metallic? thanks so much
Reply to tonya
vinothjohnnash – mumbai
Oct 07, 2008 - 07:28
for knits , good to use sharp needle and better ball point neddle
It can be a costly mistake to simply use the same needle for everything you sew until it breaks. The size of the needle you use depends upon the size of the fabric yarns in the fabric. The finer the yarns, the finer the needle needs to be. In general, a needle should be fine enough to penetrate the fabric without marring it, yet have a large enough eye that the thread does not fray or break during the sewing process.
The BALL POINT NEEDLE is specifically designed for knit and elastic fabrics and has a "rounded" point rather than a sharp point. This needle pushes between the fabric yarns rather than "cutting through" the yarns. This needle comes in sizes 9 to 16 and the larger the needle size, the more "rounded" the needle point is.
